Linnea Ashley on September 27th, 2010

Iganga Town, UgandaSeptember 27, 2010The power flickered. The surge protector, a metal box about three or four times the size of a box of Kleenex clicked off then on then off then on then off. I groaned.The thing is, we’d had a conversation about buying paraffin earlier in the day. Even had a plan. But […]

Continue reading about unscheduled dinner party

Linnea Ashley on September 25th, 2010

Iganga Town, UgandaSeptember 25, 2010They smiled at me through my open window, me splayed out in the bed watching a movie on my laptop. I’d just pulled my earplugs out because I…I guess I heard them coming. Our guard grinned down at me as I waved them all in the direction of the front door.There […]

Continue reading about rocks at my window

Linnea Ashley on September 25th, 2010

Iganga Town, UgandaSeptember 24, 2010I love Zimbabwean noses, think John Amos from good times; Liberian bodies, ebony skin pulled taut and shiny over highlighted muscle. In Uganda it is the lips. Full, soft, dark. They defy comparison, only the reality that they are what lips should be.I file these things away and weeks or countries […]

Continue reading about other beauty

Linnea Ashley on September 22nd, 2010

by 11am i had been taken advantage of…twice…and was starving and tired. the ride into kampala, which in waiting terms began before 8am, was relatively quick. of course it would have helped if i had printed the conference information. instead i managed a tour of parts of the city i’d never seen, walked through makerere […]

Continue reading about tongues and wandering uteruses

Linnea Ashley on September 20th, 2010

September 19, 2010Iganga Town, UgandaThe music meandered from marvin gaye’s sexual healing with a techno beat dropped in, it to shakira’s world cup African anthem. Bubbles O’Leary, one of Kampala’s busiest night spots, was equally diverse.I spent most of the evening trying not to stare as people mingled inexplicably. I say inexplicably because I can […]

Continue reading about bubbles o’leary

Linnea Ashley on September 20th, 2010

The smoke plumes black and acrid, catching in the branches of the banana tree peering leisurely over my glass tipped fence. The plastic and coated paper smolder below, blue and orange flames peak and then disappear into the charred ooze that is this week’s garbage.My compost festers in a hole at the back corner of […]

Continue reading about kill it to save it

Linnea Ashley on September 15th, 2010

September 15, 2010 Iganga Town, Uganda (Mum’s resort)The water steamed immediately. On the wood paneled walls, against the rocks and the metal pipe pushing out the wood burned heat. We set our vinyl covered cushions on the slatted bench and chatted quietly, sweat pooling on my upper lip, the center of his chest. Just barely […]

Continue reading about saunas and scandals

Linnea Ashley on September 7th, 2010

September 4, 2010Iganga Town (en route to Jinja), UgnadaMutatus are exercises in patience, tolerance, and humor. Every president, general, and potential saint should have to ride in one for at least a three-hour journey.The mutatu, a minivan divided into four rows of seats that could comfortably (if you ignore your knees) seat three in each […]

Continue reading about mutatu madness

Linnea Ashley on September 5th, 2010

September 4, 2010Iganga Town, UgandaI was fuming. My mind working out possible solutions to a work problem. The sun glaring down on me, perspiration filming salty and shiny on my top lip. The ground, uneven and muddy, passed unnoticed beneath my feet. .“Mzungo goodbye,” somehow penetrated the roar in my head and what annoys me […]

Continue reading about mad mzungo

Linnea Ashley on September 1st, 2010

Iganga Town, UgandaSeptember 1, 2010“I’m thinking about Columbia.”My mother’s perfect composure cracked and she whispered fiercely, “why do you always have to go so far away?”I’d just gotten back from South Africa and my mother mistook my interest in Columbia, for graduate school, with an interest in South America. She was wrong about that particular […]

Continue reading about blood is the least of it