Linnea Ashley on October 24th, 2010

Kampala, Uganda October 7, 2010 “I haven’t even been proposed to here, I think I’m insulted.”I was half joking but in retrospect I can hear how it must have sounded. No knowledge of my constant proposals in South Africa, no context for “love at first sight” in Liberia, it must have sounded absurd.James, a twenty […]

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Linnea Ashley on October 17th, 2010

I wanted it to be worthy of him. As if anything would have been worthy of him. As if anything could say to the world, this was my friend. Magnificent. Brilliant. Generous.I wanted it to be worthy of him and found myself angered when the cell phones rang during the service, when the camera spotlight […]

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Linnea Ashley on October 13th, 2010

She lay there. Still. Mechanical breath raising and lowering her chest with a slight pause – a stutter in the system. The monitors flashed green and red, moaned indecipherably, whirs and screeches that – unmet by rushing attendants – were usual sounds. T’s head bandaged tightly at the crown, odd pinkish coloring against her soft […]

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Linnea Ashley on October 10th, 2010

The sound, like distant thunder, vibrated in my ears. Constant. Dull. Roaring. The thin brown trail, a muddy groove tread into the lush greenery of the mountain side slipped underfoot, sucked at the bottom of my shoes, and cascaded rocks below. The view varied, sometimes obscured by banana trees and dried corn stalks, others, open […]

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Linnea Ashley on September 27th, 2010

Iganga Town, UgandaSeptember 27, 2010The power flickered. The surge protector, a metal box about three or four times the size of a box of Kleenex clicked off then on then off then on then off. I groaned.The thing is, we’d had a conversation about buying paraffin earlier in the day. Even had a plan. But […]

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Linnea Ashley on September 25th, 2010

Iganga Town, UgandaSeptember 25, 2010They smiled at me through my open window, me splayed out in the bed watching a movie on my laptop. I’d just pulled my earplugs out because I…I guess I heard them coming. Our guard grinned down at me as I waved them all in the direction of the front door.There […]

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Linnea Ashley on September 25th, 2010

Iganga Town, UgandaSeptember 24, 2010I love Zimbabwean noses, think John Amos from good times; Liberian bodies, ebony skin pulled taut and shiny over highlighted muscle. In Uganda it is the lips. Full, soft, dark. They defy comparison, only the reality that they are what lips should be.I file these things away and weeks or countries […]

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Linnea Ashley on September 22nd, 2010

by 11am i had been taken advantage of…twice…and was starving and tired. the ride into kampala, which in waiting terms began before 8am, was relatively quick. of course it would have helped if i had printed the conference information. instead i managed a tour of parts of the city i’d never seen, walked through makerere […]

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Linnea Ashley on September 20th, 2010

September 19, 2010Iganga Town, UgandaThe music meandered from marvin gaye’s sexual healing with a techno beat dropped in, it to shakira’s world cup African anthem. Bubbles O’Leary, one of Kampala’s busiest night spots, was equally diverse.I spent most of the evening trying not to stare as people mingled inexplicably. I say inexplicably because I can […]

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Linnea Ashley on September 20th, 2010

The smoke plumes black and acrid, catching in the branches of the banana tree peering leisurely over my glass tipped fence. The plastic and coated paper smolder below, blue and orange flames peak and then disappear into the charred ooze that is this week’s garbage.My compost festers in a hole at the back corner of […]

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