Linnea Ashley on October 10th, 2010

The sound, like distant thunder, vibrated in my ears. Constant. Dull. Roaring. The thin brown trail, a muddy groove tread into the lush greenery of the mountain side slipped underfoot, sucked at the bottom of my shoes, and cascaded rocks below. The view varied, sometimes obscured by banana trees and dried corn stalks, others, open […]

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Linnea Ashley on September 25th, 2010

Iganga Town, UgandaSeptember 25, 2010They smiled at me through my open window, me splayed out in the bed watching a movie on my laptop. I’d just pulled my earplugs out because I…I guess I heard them coming. Our guard grinned down at me as I waved them all in the direction of the front door.There […]

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Linnea Ashley on September 25th, 2010

Iganga Town, UgandaSeptember 24, 2010I love Zimbabwean noses, think John Amos from good times; Liberian bodies, ebony skin pulled taut and shiny over highlighted muscle. In Uganda it is the lips. Full, soft, dark. They defy comparison, only the reality that they are what lips should be.I file these things away and weeks or countries […]

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Linnea Ashley on September 20th, 2010

September 19, 2010Iganga Town, UgandaThe music meandered from marvin gaye’s sexual healing with a techno beat dropped in, it to shakira’s world cup African anthem. Bubbles O’Leary, one of Kampala’s busiest night spots, was equally diverse.I spent most of the evening trying not to stare as people mingled inexplicably. I say inexplicably because I can […]

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Linnea Ashley on September 15th, 2010

September 15, 2010 Iganga Town, Uganda (Mum’s resort)The water steamed immediately. On the wood paneled walls, against the rocks and the metal pipe pushing out the wood burned heat. We set our vinyl covered cushions on the slatted bench and chatted quietly, sweat pooling on my upper lip, the center of his chest. Just barely […]

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Linnea Ashley on September 7th, 2010

September 4, 2010Iganga Town (en route to Jinja), UgnadaMutatus are exercises in patience, tolerance, and humor. Every president, general, and potential saint should have to ride in one for at least a three-hour journey.The mutatu, a minivan divided into four rows of seats that could comfortably (if you ignore your knees) seat three in each […]

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Linnea Ashley on September 5th, 2010

September 4, 2010Iganga Town, UgandaI was fuming. My mind working out possible solutions to a work problem. The sun glaring down on me, perspiration filming salty and shiny on my top lip. The ground, uneven and muddy, passed unnoticed beneath my feet. .“Mzungo goodbye,” somehow penetrated the roar in my head and what annoys me […]

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Linnea Ashley on September 1st, 2010

Iganga Town, UgandaSeptember 1, 2010“I’m thinking about Columbia.”My mother’s perfect composure cracked and she whispered fiercely, “why do you always have to go so far away?”I’d just gotten back from South Africa and my mother mistook my interest in Columbia, for graduate school, with an interest in South America. She was wrong about that particular […]

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Linnea Ashley on September 1st, 2010

September 1, 2010Iganga Town, UgandaThe issue with long distance sick-ing is two-fold. There is the long distance part. The idea that folks who care about you are worried and can’t do anything. They can’t bring you soup or see you to make sure you aren’t worse than you say (which when far away you might […]

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Linnea Ashley on August 31st, 2010

Iganga Town, UgandaAugust 31, 2010 There are some americanism, my inner mzungo so to speak, that I would presume are rigid and inflexible. I’d be wrong but I sometimes argue with myself that it is true. Personal space is one of those things. From my history I know that I can work through the concept […]

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