Liberia

Linnea Ashley on December 21st, 2009

“where can I find doughnut grease?“ I smiled at the women in the covered market that I’ve passed every time I’ve been to Monrovia. Today, having walked back from meetings at the Ministry of Health I decided to take a look around. Not just browsing, I was searching for doughnut grease. Doughnut grease was in […]

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Linnea Ashley on December 21st, 2009

I crossed the Montserrado river for the first time. Halfway across, we could see the destroyed bridge to the left – so iconic during the war. It remains in disrepair, like so many gutted buildings and abandoned building projects. Heading out of town that way, we passed the port, sparking for me, a reminder that […]

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Linnea Ashley on December 16th, 2009

Despite being nestled amid lush greenery that slowly inches its way closer…to the house, the walking path, the garbage burn pit…my job is actually encased in cement. Cement walls and floors and an imposing enclosure engulfing it all; a dingy wall – with once-bright pictures depicting safer sex and mosquito nets to prevent malaria. It […]

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Linnea Ashley on December 16th, 2009

She greeted me, her hand reaching back to touch my arm as she walked by. The younger one, lagging just a little behind her, hands occupied with bucket and basin for water, greeted me with a mumble I couldn’t quite understand. “what?” I stopped and looked back at her. “my mom died,” she smiled at […]

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Linnea Ashley on December 14th, 2009

Despite being nestled amid lush greenery that slowly inches its way closer…to the house, the walking path, the garbage burn pit…my job is actually encased in cement. Cement walls and floors and an imposing enclosure engulfing it all; a dingy wall – with once-bright pictures depicting safer sex and mosquito nets to prevent malaria. It […]

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Linnea Ashley on December 14th, 2009

The white bag lay flat on the ground. It was noticeable only in its whiteness. The beginning of the dry season and the harmatton (the winds from the northern part of the continent) scatter dust in fine particles into piles, against skin. So the white, absent of the brown tint of everything else, stood out. […]

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Linnea Ashley on December 11th, 2009

“Are you afraid to walk?” Her expression betrayed a little amusement. Not quite mocking, it was friendlier than that. “We walked before,” I countered, “but we were told that we shouldn’t.” She spoke quickly to a man sitting on a ledge at the Cape Hotel, where we’d spent the evening eating and using the internet, […]

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Linnea Ashley on December 7th, 2009

I’ve hit a rough patch. Hell, we’ve hit a rough patch. Well, maybe not Wry-ly who seems beyond it all, but BushDiva and I have resorted to a kind of quiet desperation around food. I’d like to blame Wry-ly’s composure on the reality that she’ll be heading home in about three weeks – but the […]

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Linnea Ashley on December 3rd, 2009

“My pe kin.” Gutz is always calling into the distance, “My pe kin,” as he fishes in his pocket for money or finishes a meal that requires the plate be taken in. My pe kin (I very well may be spelling that wrong) and the female equivilant, “small girl“, are bestowed “generously” on any child […]

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Linnea Ashley on December 3rd, 2009

4am greeted me. Guinea fowl and roosters screaming close by. 4am greeted me and wouldn’t let me sleep. Instead I laid in the darkness, picking out familiar sounds, fixating on unfamiliar ones outside my windows. But the darkness and my closed lids were an exercise in futility and by 5 I’d turned on the lights […]

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