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“when will you leave Liberia? What will you do after?” Common enough questions. I responded as usual, “April. If I don’t find a job somewhere in Africa then I’ll return home to the States.” I then volunteered that I have friends in Uganda and Tanzania who might have employment information for me there. He mused […]
Belecca’s friend was fussing. I didn’t understand why and Belecca didn’t look upset. Instead she shook her head in agreement and smiled at me. “What’s wrong?” “They are making that bag into two bags instead of one big one for her to carry her market things.” The bag in question, held lightly in her hands, […]
“I want to ask what country you are from.” He had been staring at me while I searched out taxi prices to kakata. An older man, slender, graying, with a sort of lean that I assume was palm wine induced, and a cigarette dangling from his fingers. When I replied he said, “but you are […]
There are no eggs. I’m still fuzzy on why but there are no eggs. Ok no is a slight exaggeration. But there is definitely an egg shortage. What usually sustains me during the course of the day, two sometimes three of the boiled buggers at a time, have all but disappeared on the compound. For […]
Liberia takes everything back. The land, the people. They are all seemingly swallowed, digested, and then sprout anew. Be it the banana peel I throw beside the trail to my house. The next day I see it brown and trampled. in a week it is gone. Eaten or carried away. Ground into the earth to […]
Yesterday the kids, playing who knows what in our front and side yard, screamed with delight when the current finally buzzed on. The last week or so it hasn’t come on until 7pm. Gutz guessed they are saving an hour each night so that we can have current until noon on Christmas. Its as good […]
There is something acutely incongruous about hearing feliz navidad on loop while swerving and dipping down a pot holed road- lush greenery rising up on both sides. This Christmas is definitely green. it doesn’t feel like Christmas, music to the contrary. Although as I write it I’m unsure of what it feels like in adulthood. […]
It was a $7.50 indulgence. Not too bad by Monrovia standards but downright ridiculous by Bong County standards. I can usually cook an entire meal for three people on about $2. Of course that meal is variations of the same thing…rice, beans, and curry powder…some kind of leafy green if potato or water greens are […]
“where can I find doughnut grease?“ I smiled at the women in the covered market that I’ve passed every time I’ve been to Monrovia. Today, having walked back from meetings at the Ministry of Health I decided to take a look around. Not just browsing, I was searching for doughnut grease. Doughnut grease was in […]
liberian from liberia
I crossed the Montserrado river for the first time. Halfway across, we could see the destroyed bridge to the left – so iconic during the war. It remains in disrepair, like so many gutted buildings and abandoned building projects. Heading out of town that way, we passed the port, sparking for me, a reminder that […]
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